Sunday, February 19, 2017

February MAGAM Decided - A Very Delayed Post!

Well - here it is, half-way thru February and I realized I haven't posted my February MAGAM project yet.  I have been working on this dress for the last few weeks - in between life's crazy moments - evacuations due to potential flooding, plumbing issues, septic pumping and the numerous alterations people have been bringing to me!  This winter has brought parched California lots of very much needed rain, but I have to say, a few days of sunshine would be very welcome at this point.  So what better project to work on then a summery dress to bring a little brightness and warmth to this cold weather!  Another doozy of a storm is moving in at the moment so I had better get this posted before the power goes out.

Here's the project for the month - Vogue 9077 - View C.

The print was purchased at last year's sewing garage sale and I am actually making the project that I originally intended for this lovely rayon piece.

The main dress is cut from the printed material.  I am using the purple for the front placket, the collar tabs and the accent strips on the fronts.  I'm stitching the green ribbon down the center of the accent pieces and will use pink buttons for the front.  I've extended the front placket all the way to the bottom too.  Oh, and as luck would have it, I have a belt from other dress that matches the purple perfectly!

Wish me luck that I finish this in February!

Happy sewing everyone!

Star


Saturday, February 11, 2017

January MAGAM Challenge finished!

I'm a little late in posting my January MAGAM Challenge, but it's finally finished and I think I'm fairly happy with it.  My first official "wearing of the garment" will determine it's ultimate fate though - do I keep it the current length, or shorten it?


The length question was part of the reason it took me so long to finish it - along with not being able to find hem tape this color.  I added 3 inches to the length of the pattern because - well - I just thought it was a good idea I guess.  This additional length caused the almost finished skirt to hang on my dress form for at least two weeks with one side pinned up to a shorter length and the other side hanging as I had cut it.  Everyday I would look at the skirt and scratch my head because I couldn't decide which length I liked better.  I even resorted to asking the DH's opinion, and he couldn't decide either.   I really liked the way the longer version hung in it's soft, flowing waves - but I didn't like where it hit my calf.  If I cut it shorter, I was afraid it wouldn't hang as nice as it does in the longer version.  So - the compromise is to wear it the longer length for awhile and if I really don't like it that length, I can always shorten it later.  Problem solved!

As I'm still pondering the length question in this picture, I'll explain a little of the construction process.

The skirt consists of 6 pieces - 3 for the upper yoke and 3 for the skirt portion.  I labeled each piece as I cut it out - clearly marking the right side and which piece it was - this was extremely helpful.  As you cut the pieces out, thread tack all of the markings of where the yoke "waves" meet the skirt "waves".  Cutting little slits like I normally due for marking notches won't work for this skirt as the seam allowance for joining the yoke to the skirt is only 3/8 instead of 5/8 so the thread tacks are necessary.


Once you have the yoke pieces and the skirt pieces sewn together, now sew a basting line 3/8" along the yoke and skirt pieces.

Next, you place the yoke portion on top of the skirt portion, right sides up, and hand sew the pieces together along the stitching line.  It won't look very nice at this point - at least mine didn't.  Here it is after the hand sewing has been done:

One thing that seemed to stick out oddly were the pointy portions of the waves.

Side view of the front wave:

And back view of the waves.  Come on now, who really wants these things poking out like that, especially on your backside!  At this point, I almost gave up over the frustration with the poking waves, but I decided to trudge on.

The pattern doesn't call for a lining, but since my fabric is a wool and wool will itch me to death without a lining, I had to make one.  Well - the lining held all of the answers for the poking waves.  After realizing I had cut out the left yoke piece incorrectly (as my waves were pointing the wrong way), I cut out a new piece and sewed everything together.  This time, I just sewed them the normal way (right sides together using a 3/8" seam allowance).  When I held up the lining, low and behold, the poking pieces draped to the back and weren't poking out!  Ta da!  That must be how they are supposed to go!

After trimming the yoke seam allowance and giving the skirt a good pressing, the poking waves were a little less pokey, but still didn't look right.

After yet another round of persuading the fabric with vast amounts of steam, I finally got them to fall correctly (and a little hand tacking on the inside helped too!)

Doesn't it just hang beautifully?!?!!?  Would you shorten it?

And it twirls good too!



One last little tidbit here.  The waistline is finished using grosgrain ribbon.  Instead of just ending the ribbon at the zipper, I like to extend one side of it about 3 inches, fold it back 1.5 inches and stitch it together making a little tab.  Then sew a button hole in the tab and add a button to the other side of the ribbon.  This helps to pull the skirt together at the top and makes it much easier to zip.  And, there is no need to sew on a hook and eye because the ribbon does the same thing as the hook and eye.
 
January MAGAM is now done!  And as a bonus, all of these fabrics were from the stash so we are counting them in my new stashbustin' amount for 2017.

Total for skirt outer fabric = 2.25 yards
Total for lining = 2.25 yards
Total for skirt = 4.5 yards
Total YTD yardage = 7.125 yards

I'm off to a slow start this year it seems, but I have alot of things in the sewing queue so stay tuned! More garments to come!

Happy sewing everyone!
Star